and im happy to have you so close to me!

@Fabi: It is my home and I’m really happy to share it with you.

@Oscar: Thanks! Como dicen: estadounidense de nacimiento, pero tica de corazón, no??

@Saratica: I really like San Pedro, though the noise and pollution can get to be a little much at times. Whenever I move next, I’m looking for a quieter place!

@Chris: Haha, if you walked across an intersection when the light was green here, you would — and I am not kidding you on this one — be killed within your first day! But this is a great place. An awesome place.

when i left san josé i totally felt the same. it felt like home. i cried heaps leaving. i wish i could have stayed, but i’m sure it’s changed since i left. we could have been roomates, with a big house overlooking the valley. or imagine if i moved to turri? i can’t. all i know was that when i left, san josé felt like home. i realized it when i walked up the hill from my apartment in the morning and saw a big man cutting grass with his machete and i just said “buenos días” and smiled.

toronto is home in a different way. last night i went to trampoline hall, a local nutbar lecture series and watched a homeless mayoral candidate and self-admitted crack addict give a speech on early childhood education. last weekend i got to see live music for free on the lake, while corporations tried to feed me more and more free alcohol. i love toronto, i also love san josé. i know i’ll be back soon, probably for the wedding. things will be different when i get there, but i know i’ll always have great friends to come back and visit.

xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxo

elle.

Also, my dear, let’s not get too ahead of ourselves. I think you gave Fabi his first mild heart attack with your nonchalant approach to “the wedding.”

Having said that, San Jose does have it’s dangerous parts and it’s important to always be on your guard. I got robbed just before I went on vacation in the middle of the day 100 metres from my home, and no longer have my cell phone, the same day one of my friends’ cousins got robbed *and killed* for his cell phone. Both of these robberies were in Heredia which is significantly less dangerous than San Jose.

A couple months back I took an Australian friend into San Jose for a big night out (don’t ask which clubs and he decided to wander off at 4am drunk - and got robbed at gunpoint - passport, wallet, money and the dick’s fancy-schmancy watch.

The main thing to remember is that if you look foreign everyone around you is going to assume you have more than them and that makes you a prime target. I’m sure your tico friends will have told you the precautions you should take but the gist of it is, never go out with anything you can’t afford to lose, and never with more than you need.

I was so paranoid 5 or 6 weeks ago when I finally bought a new laptop… I had 1.5 million colones in my pocket and that’s a scary amount to be carrying around in a country where it’s almost a year’s income to some people.

Unfortunately, guns are a presence in this world. Bad people use them for bad purposes. I guess what I dislike is the stereotypical tourist notion that Costa Rica is some third world country whose residents are too backwards to own guns and perpetrate violence. I’ve never understood how people could be surprised when they came to CR, bedecked in their diamonds and gold, that they got robbed at midnight in a darkened barrio of San José.

I love this city with it’s pros and cons. I hate that the guidebooks tell everyone to avoid us like the plague, because it’s really not that bad! It’s just like any other city, except better.

And which thing you really like about your new life in CR??

The thing I love most (besides you) is the people I have met. Our friends are fantastic and are not only a lot of fun, but some of the most interesting and cool people that I have ever met.

@Helen: Gotta come to the defense of dear Chepe!

As much as I enjoyed my time in San Jose & Costa Rica, I also experienced some aspects which were negatives for me. My visits were primarily for the purpose of deciding whether to retire here, but at least for now I don’t see this as the place for me. I will return, but 2 months seems to be my limit before dissatisfaction sets in. READ NO FURTHER IF YOU’RE A POLLYANNA. The crime aspect has already been noted here and that is a negative. Once the shops close no later than 9PM, the sidewalks on Avenida Central (the main street east from downtown) become deserted. Walking then becomes problematic and I really dislike having to take taxis everywhere at night. In fact, I didn’t do so because I don’t like being ripped off by taxi drivers or hazard being a passenger in a vehicle driven by a maniac. I just didn’t go out after 9PM, and after 2 months, I start longing for the ability to drive to a 24-hour grocery store or Walmart. I was never mugged but less careful friends were, including 2 at gunpoint (while they were walking to the girl’s apt in a residential neighborhood, albeit at 4AM). I also tired of the guns. Guns, guns, guns. They are everywhere. I’ve never been anywhere where almost every store has an armed guard sitting out front with a shotgun on his lap and every other corner in a residential neighborhood has the same, and the houses sit behind high iron gates and walls with barbed wire on top. It’s a constant reminder that crime is prevalent and that the government has insufficient resources to combat it. It creates an uneasy atmosphere for me and after 2 months I need a break. But the worst aspect of the crime for me is the attitude of the Ticos. Maybe it’s no worse than in other major cities, but Ticos don’t want to be involved if the crime doesn’t involve them directly. An acquaintance attending the University of Costa Rica had a cellphone in her belly pack. One crook tripped her and the other stripped the belly pack. This happened in full view of students waiting at a bus stop. She screamed, but no one batted an eyelash, much less tried to thwart the thieves’ getaway. Maybe it was because she was an obvious extranjera-a blonde German (a blonde or blue-eyed Tico is an extreme rarity).

I also missed having a cellphone. In the USA, I carry mine everywhere. I was thinking I could buy a disposable in Costa Rica. Rude awakening. You have to be a Costa Rican national or have resident status to get a cellphone in your own name. The German girl mentioned earlier had a Tico friend purchase hers. The funny thing is that the employees of the government telecommunications monopoly has strongly opposed CAFTA because it would require open competition. They say this would be bad for Costa Ricans. Yes, it would be terrible. Ticos would have options, infrastructure would improve, transmission & reception would improve. But the govt employees would lose their jobs. Since I’ve returned to the USA, I’ve called friends in Venezuela, Mexico & Costa Rica. By far the worst calls have been to Costa Rica-static, reduced clarity and dropped calls. And that’s to San Jose. Forget about calls to Ticos located elsewhere.

Another negative for me was the transportation infrastructure. Apart from about 20 miles between San Jose and Alajuela, all the “highways” are 2 lane. During my last visit, I took 3 trips outside of San Jose with my daughters. On the way to La Fortuna to visit Volcan Arenal, there was a wreck in a hilly region. The roads don’t have shoulders, so an accident in a hilly area blocks all traffic. We sat in the bus for 2 hours waiting for clearance. 2 weeks later on the way to Cahuita, another accident. This time we sat for 4 hours before proceeding. I was incredulous. I asked a Tico friend why it took so long for the ambulance and tow truck to clear an accident. His reply astounded me. He said the government’s national insurance agency is to blame. The vehicles cannot be towed until an insurance adjuster arrives on scene and assesses the damage. CAFTA would also endanger this unique aspect of Tico life, because it would require competition in the insurance industry. It would be nice to say that accidents are a rarity on Tican roads, but unfortunately that is not true. Tico drivers are among the worst in the world. Before my first visit, I read that CR has one of the highest percentages of traffic fatalities per highway mile. Having witnessed the driving, this fact is no longer surprising. The roads are poorly maintained and potholes are prevalent. I have seen numerous drivers pass while going uphill or around a blind curve. I wouldn’t drive outside San Jose without fearing for my life and limb. I don’t mind taking buses, but again, after 2 months I miss the freedom of having a car.

Okay, enough of the negatives. They’re a precautionary tale for anyone who thinks Costa Rica will be Shangri-La. I loved the climate. I loved the accessibility in San Jose. I could walk almost anywhere during daylight hours and buses go everywhere. I particularly liked having grocery stores and the downtown district within walking distance. Movies are less than a third of US tickets, although you may have to wait a few months for first-run movies to arrive. Vegetable and fruits are fresh and ripe and cheap in the grocery stores. No more waiting for refrigerated green bananas to ripen in the kitchen. And there is much greater variety than in the US. Chicken and fish are half the US price, and the variety of fish is also much greater. Beer is about the same price and processed, manufactured foods are the same or higher than in the US (because of the shipping cost of importing these foods from the US). Restaurants are also a great value, averaging less than half US prices. And notwithstanding the travel delays, it is wonderful to be able to travel to the Pacific coast, the Caribbean coast, or the central volcanoes within 3 hours of San Jose. Once my daughters finish school, my plan is to be in San Jose during July, August, Sept, Dec, Jan and Feb. I’m going to try to extend my comfort range to 3 month stretches. Maybe I’ll try Heredia.

Costa Rica is not the USA in a prettier, warmer, more tropical package. Yes, there are many similarities, but when it comes right down to it, it’s its own country with a very distinct set of laws and customs. The roads are not good, but that’s because much of the country’s budget is used to provide its citizens with excellent education and health care. Yes, there is crime, but the majority of it is petty, at least compared to most major US cities. Yes, getting a cell phone is a bit of a hassle, but as Mike mentioned, if you have a good tico friend, it’s as easy as can be.

My point is that when you move to a different country, things will be different. Instead of lamenting the changes, embrace them. After all, you’re living on their turf now.

How do you feel here with almost 10 months living your dream in CR, in San José??

If anyone has stumble across this blog while doing research on the move, all I can say is that CR can be your all or your nothing. There are so many pluses to living here, but first you’ve got to get past the language barriers, cultural differences, and lots of other things that you may not be expecting. If you can do that, though, you will be gifted with beautiful sunsets, warm people, a gorgeous language, and one of the best countries on Earth!