Costa Rica is a verdant, picturesque and wildly diverse wonderland. In just a few hours, you can drive from sparkling beaches to mountaintop cloud forests, from spewing volcanoes to class IV rivers and almost anything in between. Some call Costa Rica a paradise. Others call it their personal hell.
An oft-quoted statistic, and one that I cannot back up with any facts other than those batted around online, is that 30-70% of expats pack it in and move out of Costa Rica within one year of their arrival. This doesn’t refer to exchange students, international interns, or those looking to temporarily live abroad, so even 30% is a huge number: three of every 10 expats who sell their things, uproot their lives, and change their world will decide that Costa Rica is so bad, so absolutely intolerable, that they have no choice but to flee.
Even if it’s not true and the real number hovers lower than 30%, most expats, whether they live in Costa Rica or elsewhere, know someone who has thrown in the towel and gone home. Usually, culture shock is what does it — in Costa Rica, many cite unexpected crime rates, infuriating bureaucracy, racism, or some combination of factors that make the adjustment more trouble than it’s worth.
Of course, my opinion is that Costa Rica is completely worth it. Because what, if not our wildest dreams, merits our hard work and perseverance? Too often, we get caught up in the 9-to-5 daily grind, working to fulfill someone else’s dream, and stop pursuing our own. When did we forget that things aren’t always easy, or that the things we want most deserve (and often require) the biggest efforts?
Costa Rica isn’t for everyone, of course. We do have crime, the government has made an art out of pushing papers (even if it is ugly, paint-splatter art), and foreigners are the subject of racism. But there is no country, no place, not even a tiny town in this world that doesn’t have several cons to balance out its pros. If living in Costa Rica is your dream, pursue it. But do so wisely.
Dreams are valuable, and they deserve patience. Don’t rush toward the reward before carving out a path to your goal. I admit, I am meticulous in this regard — I take days, weeks or even months to flesh out each idea, decide if it’s viable, and then chart each step toward its completion. Call this the logical, practical and even boring side of wish fulfillment, but it’s a necessary part of almost any goal.
In my case, moving to Costa Rica required planning, research and then more planning and research. My advice is to forget the glittery guidebook prose and read about real expats in Costa Rica — there are many online resources, including blogs, internet groups, and informational websites. We love to complain. Read about the annoyances and assess the risk. Use your imagination, and put yourself in those situations — would you, could you tolerate these conditions? Be honest with yourself. Costa Rica isn’t perfect on paper, and it’s even more flawed in person.
The road to happiness is bumpy, especially in Costa Rica. (Have you seen the potholes?) You may have morose days, petulant moments, and weeks of monumental frustrations, but if this country is right for you, you’ll find that it is all worth it. Which brings me to my point: though I fully intend to reboot this blog and get back to my writing roots, I also want to provide a resource to those interested in Costa Rica living.
Let’s talk about life in Costa Rica. Let’s talk about what pisses us off. Let’s talk about what makes us happy. Let’s talk about it all. For a bit of fun and a preview of what’s to come, there’s a short list I like to call…
You know you’ve adjusted to life in Costa Rica when:
-Eating mashed potatoes, fried yucca, and rice all in one meal is completely normal. In fact, the first two count toward your daily vegetable servings, even on that weird, new pyramid.
-You’re not surprised that a new 3 bedroom home costs only $40,000 more than a 1990 Toyota.
-You know that “Tico time” is a euphemism for “I’m going to be at least an hour late,” and you make plans accordingly.
-You hear somebody say “de nada” and wonder what country they’re from. It’ll always be “mucho gusto” to you.
-Spiders, cockroaches, scorpions and tarantulas don’t belong inside, but no longer cause you to run screaming from the room.
Hey
Nice to read something from you after soooo long.
And it’s really nice that you’ve accepted Costa Rica as it is, many people go there hoping to find the perfect paradise (which I don’t think can be found in this world).
I like your list, you made me crave for yuca frita hehe.
Keep up the writing, and the good vibes
Happy you’re back too! I’m really looking forward to reading/hearing all of your insights on being an expat there.
Dan
I think I’m still working on that last one - it’s the ants and roaches that freak me out - but
it’s only really been one month.
And I totally relate to your planning. It took a month long scouting trip and a year and a half of hard planning to get us here. We’re trying our best to not wear rosy glasses, but also focus on the good. I suppose it’s too early to see if we’ll end up being a statistic, but so far, so good!
Good info !
I’ve visited here for 24 years and lived up on Arenal for the last 3.
It aint for everyone.
I wouldn’t live anywhere else on earth !!!
2 months to get a starter for an old Ford. LOL Who cares !
Pura Vida !
Doug from Oasis of the toucans……. Dot Com
Going on four years and feel I am fairly adjusted but a roach, tarantula or scorpion will send me screaming any day. It is the girly girl in me.
@Will: Thanks and sorry to cause a craving… I love yuca frita.
@Daniel: Thanks so much, hopefully I can keep it up!
@Trish: The bugs still freak me out, but it’s a different kind of freak out — more along the lines of “okay okay, how do I get this thing OUT without touching it with my bare hands??,” instead of complete, uncensored terror. I think I’ve just learned that in all my encounters with six- and eight-legged beasties, I’ve never ended up on the losing side, so I don’t waste my time with the “what ifs” anymore.
@Doug: You have the best pura vida attitude! I hope that, after a few more years, I will feel like that. I’ve certainly relaxed since I moved here, but certain things still do get me going. I try to breathe deeply and remind myself that it’s only a long line or an alarm in the middle of the night, and not the end of the world, but sometimes I still feel like kicking pura vida in the butt.
@Bonnie: I’ve given up on the girly girl (as I think you know). Bugs in almost every bag of rice, tarantulas in my shower, roaches the size of my hand and all sorts of other creepy crawlies just don’t get high rankings on my priority list anymore. I still don’t like getting near them though — usually I fetch the tupperware and open the door for Fabi as he helps them along to freedom.
I’m unconvinced that for those who leave, “Costa Rica is so bad, so absolutely intolerable, that they have no choice but to flee.” I believe that many leave because they’ve enjoyed Costa Rica and it’s now time for a new adventure. When I leave, it won’t be because it’s intolerable here. It won’t be because I have no choice but to flee. It will be because there’s somewhere else I want to be. I suspect that if you look at many places in this world, perhaps even including your hometown, a substantial portion of the residents eventually leave to go somewhere else. For many, it’s an indication of their desire to experience new things, rather than a failure to adjust to their current surroundings.
I absolutely love living in Costa Rica… but unfortunately I may end up being one of the statistics. I love sharing this country with my children. I love that my kids are learning Spanish. I love that we don’t have a television. Unfortunately, raising a family in Costa Rica is not much less expensive than raising our family in the U.S. Living here, it is easy to see how a single person can live on a small budget. It is very different providing for children. Medical care, nutritious meals, and school supplies are much more expensive than we bargained for. Our family is working to accelerate our plan to find ways to earn a living in Costa Rica to supplement the funds that we thought would last several years. I am hopeful that we will remain ex-pats for many years to come. If not, I will go home to suburbia thankful that my children were able to experience this wonderful country(with all its culture shocks and pitfalls, but more importantly with immense natural and cultural beauty.
I read this article by accident. I was spending some minutes in front of the computer and I was thinking about my teacher (a polish lady who doesn’t like being called “gringa”) and Google led me to this website.
I know almost nothing about expats, but in my opinion, racism shouldn’t be such a big problem for foreigners, eventhough they should take some care about that. Much of us don’t grow that kind of feelings.
It is easy to get scared in a situation when you know nothing about what is happening around you and any comment you hear you may think is a threat for you! I suggest to any foreigner who comes to Costa Rica that make a Costa Rican friend, so he/she advice him/her about risks in this country and what is not necessary to get scared about.
Fabián Pacheco
(Costa Rican, 24year-old)
So. Where are you? You talk of Costa Rica… but what about YOU? How are you?
So, I had appreciated your renewed commitment in writing…Last April. I faithfully checked back once a week for an update and have now come to the conclusion you really didn’t commit to anything. I’m sorry that we won’t be hearing from you anymore, you really do have a talent. It was in fact, some of that writing talent that brought me to CR for the first time last March. Since then, my wife and I have sold ou home in the states, bought a new on in San Ramon sur and begin our new adventure with a sense of “Mucho gusto”
Paul
I had a good friend who moved to Costa Rica about 10 years ago. He didn’t stay in touch with anyone. Supposedly he bought a house on the beach and rented it out in the busy season and lived off the income from the house. It seemed like a reasonable thing to do. He was a lawyer and had some money when he moved.
Now I have heard that he lost the house and is living on the streets and begging for rice’ that the Costa Rica government wants all expats to pay $65,000 to stay (which he clearly does not have,) and that like many destitute expats he is going to be sent home.
I tried to find something about this online but could largely find glowing reports of expatdome from websites that were possibly trying to lure foreign $$$.
Is there any truth to that?
I am writing from Oregon in the US. My husband and I are just beginning to explore the idea of Costa Rica at retirement. My husband traveled a lot in his younger years and is ready for another adventure. I have lived in Oregon all my life and traveled to British Columbia a couple of times and Hawaii once. Mostly a home body but realizing if I don’t do something adventurous now I never will.
My greatest concern about leaving is not seeing my family and grandchildren frequently but all of our lives are so busy we don’ get to see much of them anyway.
I love nature, gardening, art (I am a painter and graphic designer) and bugs don’t bother me. I put them outside whenever I can. I was fascinated to see there is a serpentarium in Grecia or Alajuela. I find snakes very interesting. Not in the house though.
Please continue your blog. I love reading about all this. Feel free to forward advice too.
Thanks
Becki Trachsel-Hesedahl
haha! I love the ‘de nada’ comment. I totally think that!!
I loved this latest post. We have a home in Mal Pais that we visit for 3 months every year beginning in Jan. We have 2 small kids and being able to show them a different culture, if only for a few months, is priceless.
We own a restaurant in NC and are trying to figure out how to sell it & move to CR permanently. Maybe one day… until then I’ll just keep following expat blogs & learning more & more.
Best of luck to you, Pura Vida
Erin:
as a Costa Rican living in the US (DC), I’m with you 100%. If someone thinks that packing and moving to a diferent country doesn’t require hard work, then big surprises await. The desilusion comes when the expat thinks that moving to CR will be prety much like the time of their exploratory visit, when they went to the all inclusive hotel and stayed at the beach. if the expat that moves in wants to be part of the Costa Rican society, they will have to work WITH the rest of us. The same goes here.
saludos